The first time I liked yogurt, it came in a small glass bottle, a sprinkle of coarse salt piled on the top cap of cream in a miniature milk bottle. Iran, 1975, hostel, first dairy (other than marvelous Magnolia ice cream) in 26 months. In a place that felt as far from home culture and home people as possible, the taste brought me right back to the concrete porch in beautiful Wayne County where Mother and Dad processed milk into cream, butter, and cottage cheese.

For decades I tried yogurt brands, but never found any I wanted to eat everyday. I made yogurt for some years, but mostly for others in the house.

I’m in a new yogurt phase now, courtesy of real milk from marvelous local Jerseys, Bulgarian cultures from New England Cheesemaking, and techniques from Sally Fallon’s Nourising Traditions and from Real Milk. I make low temperature yogurt slowly, over about 10 - 12 hours in a Yogotherm and in a glass jar in a deep pan of warm water. I cover both “incubators” with a hot/cold bag and some towels, clean rugs, or blankets to keep the heat in. It makes a strange contraption - notice the photo — but it works without any added power of any kind.

The taste? Bracing. It took about a week, and I began eating/drinking/slurping the curd-y texture straight out of a glass at least twice a day. The tart taste is glorious!